As the nights lengthen and a hint of chill returns to the evenings, the German nomenklatura descend on the Bavarian city of Bayreuth and watch Europe’s pre-eminent classical musicians shrieking and walloping their way through the works of Richard Wagner.
The less high-minded or masochistic go instead to Bad Segeberg, an hour’s drive north of Hamburg, and climb up a limestone mountain riddled with medieval salt mines.
