Two women sit at a table near the front door of a small, nondescript bar in western Ukraine.
Speak the password, and they will escort you to a closet, inside which is a staircase that leads down to a stone cellar.
As they descend, they’re greeted with bass music from the chic restaurant below. It’s decorated with modern art installations that represent Ukrainian independence and the Russian occupation. On the menu is elevated traditional Ukrainian cuisine. All the ingredients and beverages are sourced from within the country.
