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Recite Islamic verse or you’re dead — the Kashmir massacre retold

Dawn breaks in Hapatnar, a remote village filled with walnut growers and pony owners.

Naushad Hussain, 28, a taxi driver, wakes early, slips out of the family house into the cool mountain air and heads off to work. It is April 22, a Tuesday, in Indian-controlled Kashmir.

The 30km drive to Pahalgam, a bustling tourist town framed by the Himalayas, takes about half an hour.

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