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Ukraine’s death toll is a secret. Its overflowing graveyards are not

As the coffin is carried through the cobbled streets of Lviv, a hush descends and passersby drop to their knees. Traffic comes to a standstill, a lone bugler sounds his tune and Stepan Telychko, the latest of the city’s fallen warriors, is sent to his final rest.

The mourners will gather at the graveside not in Lviv’s storied Lychakiv Cemetery, known as Ukraine’s Père Lachaise, nor in the adjacent military cemetery known as the “Field of Mars”. After almost four years of war, on December 10 it ran out of burial plots.

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