Every morning, Darya looks forward to visiting her favourite café on the way to work. From her home on Yusufabad Street, an upper-middle class neighbourhood where Tehran’s old villas meet the new apartment blocks, she descends 200 zigzagging tiled steps.
From there, she catches a bus that runs down a dedicated narrow lane on Valiasr — the longest street in the Middle East — connecting the affluent north to working-class Tehran.
